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An Examination Of NASA's
Color Methods
How to assemble a color
image, and how to undo the errors in the NASA data
BACK
The method of
assembly is pretty simple. Once you have three images, you overlay them
and they blend into a single color image. Each color frame is 1/3 of the
image data, and using a "transparency" command lets you determine how
much of each ends up in the finished product. But there are some rules
that we must follow and some details we must know first.
For one thing,
each filter subtracts most of the light from the camera when it is used.
Only the particular color that the filter will permit can register in the final
image. This means that the image will be very dark, not at all like what
you would expect. And, since some colors may contribute more, their images
will be intrinsically brighter.
The term for
this is "relative intensity". The camera has an electronic
aperture and it will adjust itself so that whatever the light level is, it will
be "stretched" to cover the entire range of available
intensities. This has the advantage of saving the maximum amount of light
intensity data in the frame, which means that the final image has potentially
more information in it.
However, we
cannot just paste the images together- without that relative intensity data, the
color balance will be all wrong. So some simple rules of thumb have been
developed to help replace the unknown relative intensity data. Calibration
targets can be useful for this, as the original colors were imaged on Earth
before the rovers were launched. Comparing the digital images that the
rover returns to the real images here on Earth, we can get a very good idea of
the proper intensity values.
Let's try an
image first with no relative intensity adjustment and see how it comes out.
| If no corrections for
relative intensity are made, then all three color frames are given equal
intensity and the image comes out like this. Somehow, while there is
too much green and blue, the image actually comes out more red. This
is in part due to the non-linear nature of our eyes.
This frame was assembled by
overlaying the previous frames and then raising the brightness and
contrast by 70% and dropping the saturation by 30%. Otherwise, the
image are far too dark and the colors are far too rich.
Click the image for a full-sized
version. |
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| Now we have adjusted the
relative intensity levels to allow 100% of the red, 60% of the green, and
30% of the blue into the image.
The intensity overall goes down
somewhat, so we must raise the brightness and contrast by 75% instead of
70%. The saturation was also decreased by 30% in this image, just as
above.
The result is a sky that is no longer
pink. Note that this is the empirically determined relative
intensity value, and the same levels that virtually all photo
post-processors use on the NASA data to create the truest color image that
they can.
The problem is that this image is
based on using infrared data in place of the red data. For a true
color image, NASA should have shot this image using the 673 nm filter,
which is in the red band.
Click the image for a full-sized
color version. |
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| Now, how could we verify
whether this method is correct or not? We could benefit from having
a color reference of some sort. And we do, in fact.
NASA included a "sundial"
and color reference that allows them to get a very good idea of what
things should look like. This image is using the same filters as the
above images- L2 as red, L5 as green, and L6 as blue. Here is the
result.
See the hot pink color chip at the
far right lower corner? That is the blue color reference
chip. How did it get to be pink? The answer is simple- this
image uses infrared as the red channel, not red! The blue
reference chip happens to radiate strongly in the infrared band, thus
throwing the color way off. It also makes some features of the
landscape look far redder than they should. |
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| In this reference image,
also from Sol 001, I have selected filters L3, L5, and L6 as red, green
and blue respectively. This means that the blue color chip will not
have the excess red added to it. And, I have used the rule of thumb-
red at 100%, green at 60%, and blue at 30%.
Now, it becomes clear that there is
not enough blue in this image. And, the saturation is also
off. Let's experiment with the levels until we get a true color
representation, then apply those resulting values to the original image to
get a real idea of what it should truly look like. |
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| If we remove the rule of
thumb and simply add the colors together at the same levels, the results
are like this- too blue or violet looking. While the heat shrink
tubing on the wiring is almost the proper blue, and the color tabs are
almost as they should be, there is still something not quite right with
the overall image.
So we do have to apply some
correction factors. Let's take the values to a midpoint of our rule
of thumb and work from there. |
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| The final analysis reveals
that the sundial and reference chips are not in direct sunlight- they are
being indirectly lit by light bouncing off the landing airbags.
The best balance and correction
(without washing out the image) ends up being slightly too green.
However, we can compensate somewhat and in the end we get this image.
The settings are 78% red, 60% green,
and 37% blue. The brightness and contrast are set to +80% and the
saturation is down by 27%. And while it still is not quite right, on
later images we have a clear shot of raw sunlight to work with and the
images are more reliable overall. |
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| Now, let's see what the
landscape would look like if we apply these new values to the image data.
This image uses exactly the same
images as the original L2, L5, and L6 landscape frames, but with one
difference. I assembled the image from the data derived from the
calibration image above.
Now we see (given that we are using
the L2 filter instead of L3) that the landscape is almost the same, but
the sky is faintly blue. The pink cast is located at the corners,
low over the ground.
And that is precisely where the dust
would be settling in the atmosphere. Since the air is very thin,
dust particles will settle much more rapidly than they would on
Earth. Now, can we see other evidence of a blue sky on Mars?
And more importantly, can we trust that these are actually good
calibration values? |
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Here is a link
to a forum that shows exactly what I have been demonstrating here.
MORE BACK
DONE
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